Day 6

7th April 2010

After much physical exertion yesterday, we had planned for a slow day today. We shall be journeying from Milford Sound, back out to Te Anau and our final destination will be Queenstown. The weather still held its cherry exterior and it was a pleasure to drive through the countryside under the bright balmy sun. We are pretty much covering our previous tracks, so we didn't bother with the photos.

The road into Queenstown from Frankton was lovely. After many hours sheep / lake gazing, it was quite refreshing to see some stone retaining walls and houses stacked upon the landscape almost haphazardly.

Frankton - Queenstown

Incoming

Repetitive accomodation units nestled among the hills

Entering Queenstown was like stumbling upon civilization after so many days in the 'wilderness'. We have seen our fair share of cars in the congested city of Kuala Lumpur, but upon arriving in QT, it was as if we have never seen so many cars in our entire lives.

Hello civilization!

I have to say, we were a little overwhelmed by the traffic & it was the first time that we felt that the Jucy Chaser is huge & fat. At first glance QT is a pretty little town. It is lovely, clean and very, very young. QT is easy to like, but hard to love. Don't get me wrong, we adore QT but we felt that QT lacks character and it will always be pretty but hard to be beautiful. All the buildings are new & funky but they don't relate to each other, much less to the environment.

More minimalistic repititive accomodation units

So, I suppose it is safe to say that nothing and everything is vernacular around here. Nothing & everything will fit nicely! In saying that though, QT's geographical location and natural landscape is astounding. Facing the spectacular Lake Wakatipu and backed by The Remarkables, it is definately prime location.

a gem of a town

QT is NZ's self-proclaimed Adventure Capital and we wholeheartedly agree. Previously I had just wanted to spend an entire week in QT to carry out all the activities QT provides. After closer investigation, I deduce that QT is a tourist town, run BY the tourists FOR the tourists. Mostly everyone is a tourist there. From the peds walking around the streets, to the bar man, waitress, paraglider, tour guides, skydiver, pilot, street cleaner & shop owner.

There are plenty of 'i-sites' around the town and besides functioning as the normal Information centres, they mainly provide bookings for activities around the town. You don't even need to do price-scouting as every one of them offers the same deal for the same activities. Convenience at its very best.

We booked our activities for the following days, then looked for accomodation for 3 nights. I made the desicion to have Korean for the night because I have a weakness for Korean.

Korean side dishes. We did not take any photos_image courtesy of Google

So, if you were ever in doubt, choose Korean. Because they never fail to disappoint. Sumptous meals, delicate side dishes, and the waitresses are usually petite, fair & lovely to behold. Between the 2 of us, we had a beef + tofu stew, seafood stew, little gyoza dumplings plus the additional side dishes including but not limited to, kimchi, honey wedged potatoes, beansprouts, sesame jelly slice, parsnip salad, mashed potatoes, jellyfish salad, etc.

Yes, it was a night to remember.

Day 5

6th April 2010

We passed the night in Milford Sound Lodge - the only campervan site available there. It was fully booked - thankfully we have made a previous reservation.

Milford Sound Lodge_our accomodation

We had previously signed up for a Kayak expedition yesterday & it wasn't due until 1430 hours. After brekkie, we drove back out to explore some of the attractions we missed yesterday. First stop - The Chasm.

Fallingwater

Moulded rocks

gotta be really hardworking spider to live in the Chasm

There are suspended footbridges & disabled-friendly footpaths to access the area where you get to enjoy the waterfall and wonder at the marvel of air and water at play. Don't use your camera if your equipment is sensitive to moisture as the falling water creates a dense mist curtain around you & might wreck the equipment.

D's "artistic" shot

More artistic shot

We left the roaring waters and headed to an old bridge for some shots. Then head back to the Lodge to kill some time. We had 1 hour to spare so we hung out at the Lounge area and chatted to a German backpacker who had 4 hours to spare.

killing some time amongst pebbles

Finally at 1430 hours, a van painted in yellow & black rocked up at the parking lot and deposited a couple of people wearing strange leggings who came straight into the Lounge area and yelled out for "all those who are going with the Rosco's Kayak team" to "please gather round". We had a briefing, cracked some jokes, took some instructions, then we all hopped into the van to a deserted beach approx. 10 minutes away.

Transformation shed

Once we arrived, we were herded into a shed and handed stripped leggings + thermals and wooly jumpers. We were divided into two groups - males & females, and then had to strip & change into our new uniforms.

After that , we were handed these items which we wore in the following order - rubber spray-skirts, bright yellow PVC overalls & purple life-jackets. It is the first time I am wearing 6 items at once. Minus the cap & sunnies & bikini.

Full kayak regalia

More briefing before we hit the water at Deepwater Basin. We were divided into groups and there were the 6 of us under one guide - a Brit named...Vin (i think). Although I did some sea kayaking like decades ago, it was a struggle for the both of us to get very far, initially. We had to paddle really hard & fast to catch up with our older counterparts. For our first checkpoint, Vin brought us to a tiny enclosure accesible only during high-tide.

Vin pointing out some rare woodpecker which we didnt snap

The enclosure & one of our group mates

Vin was yakking on & on about the diverse wildlife was I was really jumpy & could not wait to get going. I don't like the peace / quiet / the tiny enclosure. I just want to get out there into the ocean. The real Sound! My kayak was going to start to tremble soon, until Vin finally tore himself away from the "wonderful birch trees, bla bla bla" and led us along into the wider, wilder waters.

into the open

We were probably the youngest group here and also were the most eager, energetic and not to mention inexperienced. The other 2 teams were taking it slow & easy but they just cruised along, while we had to spitter & spatter just to get somewhere.

the amazing view

In my haste to stay within our group, I had almost forgotten to look up at the amazing views, as I was actually Looking at my paddle dipping in and out of the water. It was very therapeutic & hypnotizing, my paddle was.

Vin admiring his workstation

Vin must have known how hypnotizing kayaking is, so he stopped & launched himself into yet another ode to nature. And that's the thing we love about Vin. Although he got a bit carried away at Deepwater Basin, his enthusiasm and utmost respect + awareness for this surroundings made us appreciate Milford Sound all the more.

Imagine working here, day after day

Bowen Falls

Vin pointed to that waterfall falling furiously, not so far away and told us that we could paddle there. How exciting!

Up, close & personal

We did get pretty close, about a few hundred metres away from the roaring falls and it was exhilirating to be so close to the waterfall and literally inches away from the rainbow it formed. We did not take much photos as the water was splatering all over us.

snoozing seal

After paying homage to the waterfall, we paddled on & Vin's sharp eyes discovered something shining & snoozing, basking itself in the evening light. It was a male adolescent NZ fur seal.

Faraway snow-capped peaks

The day is fading fast and it was an utterly humbling experience to observe the day's swan song in the vast Sound. Colours change dramatically and the nearby peaks are silhoutted by the sun's dying rays.

setting sun in the valleys

In the blink of an eye, Twilight is upon us. One minute we were bathed in golden glorius sunlight, the next, we were ensconced in semi-darkness. By now, we were quite exhausted and I was dying to empty my bladder.
We had to go through a patch of rough seas & high winds and we witnessed tree erosions on the way back. We were informed that the granite mountains around us is submerged another further 200m below sea level and I really do not want to know about how deep the mountains go because it is a very unsettling thought.

shadow & light

All in all, Milford Sound was absolutely gorgeous, & we got to know later, that we were extremely lucky to catch that sunny weather because with an annual rainfall of almost 7m high (almost 200 days a year, it's raining there), Milford Sound is considered to be one of the wettest area on Earth.

Vin told us of expeditions in the rain or kayaking miles away from a mini cyclone. Milford Sound is more often than not shrouded in a mysterious mist, drizzling incessantly, but whatever weather you get, the Sound is sure to astound its visitors and guarantee a memorable time within its sanctuary.

Day 4

5th April 2010

Day 5. Weather took a turn for the better. Breakfast was butter & Easter spice buns on a jetty overlooking the gorgeous Lake Wakatipu and the remarkable mountain range, aptly named The Remarkables.

Jetty in front of caravan park

The Remarkables looked their best at approx. 5pm when the dusk light hits on their granite faces and highlights every crevices. This morning though, they looked muted & flat. Before we had a chance to dig in, a flock of wild mandarin ducks made a beeline for us.

Led by this chap

Followed by his alpha female

After letting them squabble for our food, it was interesting to note that they had quite a distinctive social hierarchy. The alpha male & female are clearly notable with their positions in the lake - right in front of us where the immediate food source is. Another distinctive feature is that the no other male looked as handsome as Mr. Alpha and no other females, as regal as Mrs. Alpha. And finally, they are all in pairs.

Of course, they are mandarin ducks after all! If they were not so romantic, I may be inclined to roast them for tea.

After brekkie, we started on to a place called Te Anau from Frankton and this short drive is a fine example of how the journey is usually more of an adventure than the destination itself. Took the highway that hugs the edge of the mountain range on our left side and we have the shimmering Wakatipu on our right.

From highway looking towards lake and more mountain range opposite

Devil's Staircase

Scenic route

This beautiful stretch of road ran on for about 40km. From a junction called Five Rivers, we made a turn and passed Mossburn. Another hour later, we arrived in the quaint little town of Te Anau.

I have, unfortunately no photos of Te Anau. It's a little lakeside town dotted with cafes, your everyday-retail shops and it is the last civilised area before Milford Sound - one of NZ's top attractions, which is where we are headed. We lunched & re-fueled before booking in for our activity in Milford Sound. Te Anau is also the place for you to arrange transport to & fro Milford Sound, as well as cruises or kayak expeditions.

Moving through green corridors

The scenery is much greener during this part of the journey as we are entering the heart of the Fiordland where rainfall is recorded to be up 250mm (or more) in 24 hours. But today, it was all sunny and balmy.

A jetty by Lake Te Anau - the largest lake in South Island

As we drove on, we were constantly in search of snow-capped precipices. We did not see any and were frankly quite disappointed. It was early autumn, & perhaps too early for snow peaks.

Could not resist a signature jump in the deserted road

There are plenty of little attractive spots to stop by on the way to Milford Sound.

Like this place called Mirror Lakes

This is a small patch of lake situated amidst the august mountains, and on a calm day, it will act as a large mirror & reflect the surrounding mountains so that you are looking at an awe-inspiring parallel image. D could not capture the awe-inspiring mirror because some ducks were splashing about, creating unsightly ripples. (or so he says)

Same freaking Mirror Lake taken by some other freaking photographer on July 2008. Without splattering ducks around I bet.

We also stopped by a 45 min-return loop walk around Lake Gunn. Had to pass through a mossy forest where it was cold, quiet and very very green!

mossy tree

Lichen and moss covered every inch of the tree trunks, boulders & formed a velvety green carpet along the track. The area had a perpetual moist-ness to it and I felt quite sticky & uncomfortable. Not to mention, unbearably cold.

Amidst green covers

River leading to Lake Gunn

As we got closer to Milford Sound, the scenery altered slightly with more exciting sights around the corners.

Mini-waterfall somewhere along the journey.

Cascading whitewater

The road is now gradually winding downwards and every corner seemed to store some surprises. And it was to our utmost delight that we finally chanced upon snow-capped peaks! It was pretty cool to drive along, and witness the landscape unfurl into something dramatic.

yay!

The theatrical black granite backdrop.

To get into Milford Sound, you would have to go through Homer Tunnel. It appears to us that it is a 1-way crossing as there was a set of traffic lights & we have to wait for the green light to pass. While waiting, we explored this gigantic chunk of white mass next to the road leading into the tunnel.

suspected glacier

I couldn't remember but I think this is a glacier. Apart from a sign saying, "Do not climb ice. Ice may break" I couldn't recall any other descriptions - how it was formed, what is its age, etc. A bunch of mainland chinese people were clambering all over it anyway. I was more interested with this little creature that is poking its nose around us.

Introducing the Kea

This is our very first sighting of the highly intelligent & sociable NZ wildlife, the very rare & very curious Kea. It is an alpine parrot, and therefore exhibits parrot-like behavior. The Kea is fearless around humans and this one here, like many others are foraging around for human food. We were forbidden to feed them of course. Like many wild animals, they are discouraged to be dependant on humans.

At first glance, I thought the Kea unattractive & funny in an eccentric way. At a closer look, its feathers are actually olive-gold and gives off a subtle metallic sheen. How strange. Too close the proximity causes it to fly off and displays striking orange-vermillion feathers beneath its wings.

image courtesy of Ian McHenry

Isn't it gorgeous? Looks like the Kea is full of surprises.